Travel report Malawi July 2006.

On July 6th I left with my bike to the unknown country called Malawi. This country would win my heart in the next month.

I did this bike tour with seven other bikers: Pascal, Ruth, Roderik, Tonnie, Maaike, Jan and Ed.

I didn’t had a very smooth start: I got sick in the airplane and when I arrived in Malawi, my bike and luggage weren’t there. After some lobbying it was agreed that they would send my things the next day to Blantyre, the city from where our trip would start.

Blantyre is in the southern part of Malawi and looks richer and more western then Lilongwe.

Our bike trip is from Blantyre in the south to Mzuzu in the northern part of Malawi. Total amount in kilometres: 1200 km.

Cheerfulness and enthusiasm will accompany us this whole trip. Children jumping next to the road and yelling “hello, hello”, “azuku, azuku” (the whites) and later “give me kwacha”, which is the monetary unit in Malawi.

There was never a quiet moment. You could hear the children yelling from for away. It looked like we were a celebrity. Now I know how our queen Beatrix must feel.

Sometimes it was also a bit oppressive. It was a strange feeling when people look at you even if you only eat a banana. Even adults checked us out head to toe. To them we just looked very white and then dressed in those tight bike clothes! One day we went to visit a local market dressed in our bike clothes. People just laughed at us and we didn’t know how quickly to leave. We felt very naked!

Changing or fixing a tire also gave a big audience. People stopped working and sat down to look at us. One time I had some guys “helping” me, which didn’t help at all. Their way is totally different from our way.

They do have a lot of experience with bikes in this country. People bike a lot. Biking is a multifunctional vehicle. Besides people they also transport goats, pigs and large amounts of wood on it. The bikes they have are from India.

The street life is very busy in Malawi.Everything happens there. People sell their tomatoes, wood, fish and even dried mouses at the side of the road. You see many people, especially women, carrying their merchandise, food, water and wood on their heads. Girls help their moms at a young age. Usually they walk next to their mom carrying something on their head too or a younger brother or sister on their back. I really got the impression that women do all the work and most men don’t do much.

Malawi was a good country to ride a bike. Mostly good roads and not many cars. Almost all the people we saw were biking too or walking.

During this trip I got to know the people a little better. Once they were less insecure they were very open, warm and happy. Most people are into fishing or agriculture. The children do go to school, but just for a morning or afternoon, because they need to help out or watch their brothers or sisters. Besides there aren’t enough schools and teachers for all the children in Malawi. There are many children in Malawi. Usually people have 9 children!

The mortality rate is high too, especially with children. Malaria is a big problem.

This trip also had another mission. To present the money for the Mirjam in Malawi Foundation. Friday July 14^th we would bike to Bembeke. We woke up early because it was going to be a challenging tour. Bembeke is at about 1500m and we were leaving from Cape Maclear at Lake Malawi. The first 60 km were tough, because the road was bad: sand, bumpy and many rocks. Early in the evening we arrived at the bishop’s house where we received a very warm welcome. He had invited us for dinner and a place to sleep. The bishop is the contact person between the Mirjam in Malawi Foundation and the people in Bembeke.

The next morning we left to Bembeke where we had a very warm welcome again by the teachers and sisters. After shaking so many hands and see so many happy faces, it really felt like home. We first had a tour around the old school. Indeed very old and almost no materials. This school will soon be renovated with money from the Mirjam in Malawi Foundation. I was very impressed by everything. While walking around the school I heard singing and saw children dancing. It was very clear how music can make people happy.

After this tour we were welcomed in a classroom where, together with Maaike and Pascal, I was seated behind a table. This was the official part of the sponsoring for the Mirjam in Malawi Foundation. Everybody was a bit nervous. The head teachers welcomed us. Then I had to give a speech and after that it was time for the best part; hand the money over. It was $2621!!!!!!! And it will probably be more, since I biked more kilometres.

Malawi and it’s people made a big impression on me. It’s a beautiful country with very special people who are still open for each other and live in harmony with their environment Their happiness and  enthusiasm will stay with me for a very long time.

Katinka Reinders, August 2006